I sat down and tried to write a story. I tried to write something funny and
witty but poignant and moving and something that was entirely representative of
my experience so far in France.
The problem was not a lack of stories to tell, I feel like a have a
million, but I couldn’t pick one to relate and I found myself absolutely unable
to write. I simply stared at a
blank page as the deadline loomed and the idea of distilling my time in France
into one narrative became more and more daunting. With no other ideas, I finally decided, thinking it would
also be less work (I was wrong), to share excerpts from emails that I’ve
written home to family and friends.
While it is still nowhere near comprehensive, sharing several emails at
least allows me to share a progression, an evolution, and a more realistic and
intimate vision of my life here in Grenoble.
September 10, 2005
So the apartment hunt. Ugh. Imagine looking for
an apartment in the states. Then add in 3 times the confusion as to how
to actually go about it. Then add in 10 times the awkwardness of the
phone calls (because, of course, they are all in French
and that is not necessarily easy). Then add the fact that school is
starting now and there are about 20,000 students looking for the same places to
live. Cheap, in the center of town, nice enough places. I really don’t want to live by myself
and I really do want to live with a French person; I just think it would be an
easy way to get in with a group of friends. Ready made. So
yeah, a cheap, but nice and well-located apartment in the center of town with a
French person. No Problem, right?
September 27, 2005
I think I finally found a
place to live. This dude, Pierre,
is looking to share a run down but really pretty nice apartment just off the
main part of town. It’s on a small
street next to a daily farmer’s market and you can easily walk anywhere in town
from the doorstep. It has
beautiful hardwood floors and my room has a (nonfunctional, but romantic
nonetheless) fireplace. The best
part however has to be Pierre himself.
No, he doesn’t wear a beret and a horizontally striped white and black
shirt. He doesn’t eat frog’s legs
every night. However, he does
smoke, drink his coffee black, and enjoy pâté more than anyone should,
ever. He’s also just a really nice
guy and his friends are also great; we went out to a bar last night and
everyone was welcoming and interesting.
So moral of the story is that I found a place to live that I like. With a person that I like. I’m claiming this as a moral victory.
November 13, 2005
Ok, so last night.... I ate fondu. Lots of it. For dinner. It was a pot of melted
cheese, wine, onions, and lardoons (basically bacon) easily the size of
my head (including my huge hair) and it was for three of us. Pierre’s friend, Tatiana, had an
American friend come to visit and he wanted a stereotypically French meal. I guess he got one. I still feel
not quite so well in the stomach.
Along with the traditionally French meal, we played a traditionally
French game: if you drop your bread in the fondu pot you had a punishment, a gage, decided upon in advance...
so the first punishment was that you had to sing an entire song a
capella out loud at the table in the middle of the crowded restaurant.
And of course, I dropped my bread in the pot about five minutes in to the
meal. In the French spirit of things, I decided to
sing Claude François’ French version of “Oh What A
Night,” entitled ‘Cette Année Là’
which is deliciously 80s. It was brilliant and I may or may not have
turned a shade of red normally seen only on tomatoes and stop signs. Also, I can’t sing. Or speak French. Ugh. It’s
ok though because later Pierre dropped his bread and he had to stand on his
chair and dance the Macarena for 30 seconds. A highly entertaining
evening, full of wine and good conversation, was had by all. And it felt so French,
and the stomachache (and heart disease) that comes from eating at least 3
pounds of melted cheese was well worth it....
November 16, 2005
School is going pretty well, but the very nature of the
French education system is a little grating. At least my program is overtly competitive in a way that
I’ve never experienced before.
Professors are constantly reminding students that they’re being graded
on a sliding scale. After the
first presentation in my class entitled Biologie Structurale des acides
nucleiques et de la transcription des eukaryotes (sounds fun doesn’t it)
the professor asked if there were any questions and no one raised their
hands. He then said, ‘You know you
should all ask questions because if you ask a really hard one and the group
can’t answer it, their grade will go down, and yours, by comparison, will go
up.’ Immediately about five hands
shot in the air. I was
stunned. I mean competition in
education is unavoidable but I have certainly never seen anything quite that
overt. It just leads to a bit of
an odd dynamic between the students.
And I’m really trying not to let myself feed into the competitive nature
of the program; I didn’t come to France to sit in my room studying every
night. Otherwise, things are going
well; the classes tend to be really interesting and I’ve really enjoyed the
time I’ve been able to spend in the lab.
Also, I think I may have contracted mad cow disease. Seriously.
December 18, 2005
Home is such an interesting thing. As a side note, one
of the linguistic things I don’t like about French is
that there is no word for home... there’s house, there’s so and so’s place, but
no home in the English sense of the word.
Flying into Seattle over the mountains, seeing Rainer off to the south
and then making the same bank every time over lake Washington, the Pugent
sound, the university and downtown... it just feels so amazing. But in the last couple of years, home has
changed a lot, not so much in its actuality, but in my conception of the place.
I’ve always had a critical vue of my little town, of the people and the
place, but it has always been home, and a huge part of my identity. I
think that in the last couple of summers living in Seattle, spending most of my
time in Minnesota, and now living abroad, my experience has changed enough so
that I don’t really identify that as my home, at least not fully, anymore. Carleton definitely was home, my
friends there are like family, but now everyone’s so spread out. And then there’s Grenoble. Grenoble is becoming home, and I love
it, I love my friends, my apartment, my lab… but living in a foreign country
does lead to a feeling of displacement.
I mean, being an American abroad leads to all sorts of privileges,
that’s for sure, but I am not French.
Just one look at me, just one word from my mouth and that’s
apparent. I am tired of people
talking to me in that slow voice they reserve for foreigners. I’m tired of being the token
American. I’m tired of people
asking me what I think of Bush, of American foreign policy, of American
oppression. Yes, the American
government oppresses its citizens (this is, by the way, the correct answer).
About the war in the Middle East. Yes,
I’m a pacifist (correct again).
Sometimes, the romantic ideals of living in Europe, in having a foreign
experiment, grind directly with the feeling that I have become the Other. In a country where citizens define
themselves first and foremost by nationality, where the solution to racial
discrimination is making everyone French, how does the foreigner fit? The goofy kid with holey jeans, long
hair and a funny accent. As much
as Grenoble is becoming my home, it remains a place where I feel somewhat estranged.
January 5, 2006
Grenoble is buzzing
with skiers. It’s interesting and it makes the town pretty exciting. And on my first night back it snowed
like a half a foot, big beautiful snowflakes. Then the next day I had to take the train then the bus up to
the ski station Dévoluy where I was meeting my friends at the Chalet... it
started snowing and the road actually got pretty bad. A bunch of cars stopped in front of the bus to put on chains
so the bus had to stop as well.
Then we started to slide.
To the side. Slide slide
slide, wham... long story short, the bus went into the ditch and I
almost died. Ok maybe not almost died, but I had to wait outside the bus
in the cold for 2 hours and that wasn’t very much fun. And one of my legs fell
asleep, which is kind of like it dying, right? The bus driver spent well
over an hour trying to get the bus out and couldn’t do it, and we were blocking
off the road so no cars could pass.
This guy who was behind us in his car knew how to drive a bus, so he decides
to come up and get in the drivers seat (what?!) and within 5 minutes the bus
was out of the ditch... then as quickly as he came, he disappeared back to his
car. I think he might have been
batman. Nevertheless, a one hour bus ride turned into three hours of fun. The
good news is that once I got up there, the week was really amazing. I mean, yes I was really jet lagged and
more than a little bit grumpy, but it felt nice to be out in the sun on the
slopes just hanging with a bunch of Frenchies, eating traditional French
cuisine from the region (raclette is amazing, melted cheese over
potatoes and cold meats… yum), and singing Didier Super (amazing). Plus, on the drive back into Gnobes, on
walking back into my apartment and immediately collapsing on my couch, I
couldn’t help but breathe that sigh of relief that comes from feeling both
exhausted and (at least mostly) at home.















